Published Categorised as Croatia, Photography, Popular Posts, Travel No Comments on Split

Here’s some photos from my trip to Croa­tia this summer. It was a real last minute thing, I suddenly had a week free in a packed summer of teach­ing engage­ments and still didn’t actu­ally live anywhere yet, so I bought a cheap flight to Croa­tia and did some sight­see­ing (before return­ing to Slov­e­nia ten days later for work). Here’s some pictures of Split. I wrote more about the trip in a zine- avail­able here, so I’ll leave the longer writ­ing in there and just show the photos.

The centre of Split is made up of the remains of Roman Emper­or Diocletian’s palace. It’s a film­ing loca­tion for Game of Thrones, so there are some wonder­fully tacky GOT souven­ir shops around. There’s also a strange little craft market in the dungeon.

This is the seafront. I was sitting here one week­day after­noon enjoy­ing a burek (life tip- eat as many deli­cious cheese bureks as you can), and read­ing my book, and a Korean woman was doing the same on the neigh­bour­ing bench. A drunk old Croa­tian sail­or who stank of mouldy cigar­ette smoke sat next to her and star­ted talk­ing to her. I had been plan­ning to get up, but didn’t want to leave now a sleazy guy was there, in case she wanted some backup.

Initially he made some small talk in English about asking where she was from, did she like Croa­tia etc and she answered to be polite. He then star­ted saying “oh a beau­ti­ful girl like you shouldn’t be stay­ing in a cheap hotel, come with me and I’ll take you to my friend’s five star hotel” so she imme­di­ately star­ted prais­ing her own hotel (but care­fully not naming it) and saying how happy she was there.

She then shif­ted away from him and poin­tedly read her book in the hopes he would get the hint and go away. Instead he star­ted telling her he used to be in the Yugoslavi­an Navy and went on a ship to Viet­nam, and oh those Viet­namese ladies were saucy and keen to earn money, and was getting creepi­er and creepi­er.

In her new posi­tion we were facing each other, and the creepy old guy had his back to us so we mimed at each other let’s leave togeth­er, and managed to get away from him. It’s sad how good you get at minim­al­ist miming to signal getting away from creeps. While writ­ing this, I was think­ing “oh I should cut this, I shouldn’t be negat­ive when shar­ing photos, every­one will think I just complain about everything”, but that’s the real­ity of the world if you’re female or from a margin­al­ised or discrim­in­ated against group. You’re mind­ing your own busi­ness enjoy­ing a beau­ti­ful view, and someone delib­er­ately spoils it because they can’t let you go unhar­assed. And then you guilt your­self that you’re being “negat­ive” or “dramat­ic” by talk­ing about it. It’s high time all the shame shif­ted onto the perpet­rat­ors.

There’s loads of boats in the harbour offer­ing trips to vari­ous islands and Dubrovnik.

A bit further along there is a fancy cafe. I was enjoy­ing a drink there one after­noon, and the café sound system was play­ing the radio over the outside speak­ers- Justin Bieber was play­ing at that moment. A boat drew up and star­ted abso­lutely power­ing out Fear of the Dark by Iron Maid­en on a loop. I was stuck with Maid­en in one ear, and Bieber in the other. The waiter frantic­ally hunted for the controls for the café music and real­ised he couldn’t actu­ally find it and the music was stuck on. We just hoped the boat would go away. But it didn’t. It just kept play­ing the same song again and again. So all the custom­ers (includ­ing me) hurriedly paid up and left. It was simul­tan­eously pain­ful and hilari­ous.

Further along the coast there’s a roped-off swim­ming area in the sea. Unfor­tu­nately some­thing was spawn­ing in the water. Lead­ing to the lido pool on land being abso­lutely rammed, mean­ing I never did get a swim. Later I asked the hostel recep­tion­ist (the same woman who told me I had “the voice of a psychi­at­rist”), and she was like “oh yeah I never go swim­ming around here, there’s always some­thing up with the water, I drive further along”.

Never did get my chance.

At least the coast path is beau­ti­ful.


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